Namib Oasis - Sensational Sossusvlei

Namib Oasis - Sensational Sossusvlei

The Namib Desert, one of the world's oldest, extends more than 2000km from southern Angola along the Namibian coast into western South Africa. The desert probably came into existence about 80 million years ago, but its most recent genesis occurred 5 million years ago, following the establishment of the cold Benguela Current. Winds blowing onto the landmass from this cold ocean current contain very little moisture meaning that little or no rain falls in the coastal region. Rainfall ranges from just 15mm along the Atlantic coast to 100mm in the Nauklauft Mountains some 200km away on the eastern edge of the desert. This naturally limits the extent of vegetation, but if endless, barren sand dunes are how you might perceive it then the Namib will surprise you.

The Namib is comprised of rugged stark mountains, gravel plains, grassy plains with bizarre, unexplained ‘fairy circles'. There are two extensive areas of dune fields, the larger of the two occupying the southern part of the Namib and stretching northwards from the Orange River towards the Kuiseb River, and the second straddling the Namibian-Angolan border. A number of seasonal and ephemeral rivers bisect the dune field and allow water dependent animals to seasonally or nomadically colonise an otherwise inhospitable terrain. These are normally dry, with only the Orange and Kunene Rivers flowing year round, but nevertheless subterranean water sustains a thin strip of riverine vegetation. One of these, the Tsauchab has its catchment in the Nauklauft Mountains and essentially flows into the desert only to have its course stopped by the dune fields. This has resulted in the formation of a number of pans that hold water after flooding by the river. The largest and best know of these is called Sossusvlei. The setting is one of spectacular contrasts with deep red dunes (some of the world's highest) juxtapositioned next to reed fringed pans and dwarfing isolated Camel Thorn trees. It is justifiably a mecca for many of the world's photographers.

The Namib is one of the most diverse deserts on earth in terms of animal life and for the most part this is due to two factors, the first being the life-giving moisture from fog that rolls in off the cold Benguela current and the second being wind blow detritus that collects in depressions in the dunes. Moisture is of course crucial for life and allows plants such as the Nara and Spiky Love Grass to survive in such a harsh environment, these plants in turn providing sustenance for a host of mammal species - both carnivorous and herbivorous. The detritus is the main source of food for the dune invertebrates. Aside from dietary adaptations animal life in the Namib must also adapt to the harsh extremes of temperature. Most do this by utilising burrows beneath the sand, here escaping both the scorching heat of day and the bitter cold of night. The Oryx, or Gemsbok, is not able to burrow however and instead controls its body temperature by passing its blood (which can safely reach temperatures of more than 45 degrees Celsius) through a complex network of capillaries before it reaches the brain. This allows cool blood returning from the nose (where it is cooled by panting) to absorb some of this heat and thus keep the brain cool. The Bat-eared Fox uses its large ears for much the same purpose.

&Beyond is represented in the Namib by the 10-roomed Sossusvlei Mountain Lodge situated in the 180 000 hectare NamibRand Nature Reserve. Aside from absorbing the beauty of Sossusvlei and the famous red dunes, guests have the opportunity to observe a host of desert-adapted creatures and marvel at the expanse of the night stars. The Oryx is perhaps the most conspicuous large mammal and a study examining their territoriality is currently under way at the lodge. Hartmann's Mountain Zebra and Greater Kudu also occur while Leopard, Spotted and Brown Hyenas and Caracal all eke out an existence. The thrill of the area though, aside from the overwhelming sense of space, jagged contrast and starkness, is to observe fascinating desert-adapted creatures such as the Cape Fox, Dassie Rat and Ground Squirrel, Grant's Golden Mole, Peringuey's Adder and Smith's Desert Lizard, Dune Lark and Horned Adder.

-Chris Roche-

Posted: Other by CC Africa, Date: 21 November 2006