Ruaha National Park

Ruaha National Park, Tanzania - Authentic Wilderness

It's an hour after midnight. Beyond the canvas of the tented room, the night air is crisp and a tiny African Scops-Owl lets out its enchanting cricket-like call. Whether I've been awoken by some noise or a drop in temperature which has me reaching for the plush duvet, I'm not sure. I sit up without putting on the bedside lamp. The moon, although not full, is directly overhead and it illuminates the white sandy bed of the Jongomero River, just a few metres from the wooden veranda of the spacious tent. As I look out, a huge grey shape drifts into view. An elephant, bathed in moonshine, pads quietly down the riverbed like the ghost of some prehistoric animal. As it vanishes behind a clump of spiny palms, I pull up the duvet, slip under the covers and nod off. In the morning, I'll wonder whether it was a dream or not . . .

Vast protected area

Situated in central Tanzania, the Ruaha National Park is one of the largest protected areas in Africa. It is the second biggest national park in Tanzania but since visitor numbers are comparatively few, it possesses a true wilderness atmosphere. Ruaha covers nearly 13 000 square kilometres but is part of an even larger natural system, incorporating the adjacent Rungwa, Kigozo and Muhezi reserves to the north. The reserve takes its name from the perennial Ruaha River which winds its way north-east and then south into the Rufiji River before ultimately spilling into the warm Indian Ocean. Only a small part of Ruaha is actually open to visitors who can explore a network of tracks along the main river and its many seasonal tributaries, as well as into the Baobab-clad hillsides and tall miombo woodlands. The more accessible parts of the reserve lie at an altitude of about 1000 metres above sea level, but wooded peaks on the western escarpment rise to over 1800 metres.

Great diversity

The variation in altitude and topography has given rise to wide diversity of plants and wildlife, which is greatly enhanced by the permanent water of the Ruaha River. In addition to these factors, Ruaha is also situated in an ecological transition for east and southern African species. This is in contrast to Tanzania's northern parks, such as the Serengeti, which have few ecological similarities to the southern savanna parks of Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa. All told, Ruaha is an astonishing reserve which can provide even the most experienced African travellers with something new. The undulating topography, glorious river and majestic trees combine to produce one of Africa's most captivating landscapes.

Mammal melting pot

Virtually all of Africa's large mammal species are to be found in Ruaha, although densities are not high and most individuals are wary of vehicles, in comparison to those in the more popular wildlife parks. Black Rhino were formerly abundant but none have been observed here for over two decades. African Elephant numbers were also decimated by uncontrolled poaching during the 1980s (an estimated population of 25 000 was reduced to about 6 000) but they have since bounced back and today number approximately 10 000 individuals. Hippo are abundant in the broad Ruaha River. Large carnivores are well represented, although not as accustomed to safari vehicles as in many other African reserves; good populations of Lion, Leopard, Cheetah, Spotted Hyena and Wild Dog occur throughout Ruaha. The park is also famous for its huge Buffalo herds and variety of antelope species including both Greater and Lesser Kudu (the latter is rare), Roan, Sable and Eland. Small herds of agile Grant's Gazelle occur in the open plains of the north-west which is the southern-most limit to the species' range. Wildebeest are oddly absent in this part of Tanzania. Troops of Yellow Baboon wander the woodlands, while small numbers of Black-and-white Colobus reside in riparian forest. Among smaller carnivores, both Black-backed and Side-striped Jackal occur, alongside Honey Badger, African Civet, Serval and Egyptian Mongoose. Most interestingly, three colour morphs of the widespread Slender Mongoose are known from Ruaha, each apparently restricted to a certain region. Mammalogists are also currently engaged in studies of several nocturnal galago (bushbaby) species, which show unusual distribution patterns.

Over 500 bird species

For birdwatchers, Ruaha is a truly marvellous destination, with over 500 species recorded by long-term resident Rob Glen. During a recent mid winter (July) visit I recorded 111 species during a single day (much of which was spent botanising!). Of particular interest is the Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill (Tockus ruahae) which has only recently been accorded full species status. This hornbill is abundant at Ruaha where it is often seen alongside African Grey Hornbill and Von der Decken's Hornbill. Another ‘special' bird is the Arnot's (or White-headed Black-) Chat, the local population of which differs from the southern form in that the female has a white collar; DNA work is currently underway to investigate whether this too may be a new species. Other characteristic birds of the savanna and woodlands are Ashy Starling, Nubian Woodpecker, Bare-faced Go-away Bird, White-headed Buffalo-Weaver, Grey-capped Social-Weaver, Red-faced Crombec, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Collared Palm-Thrush and Crested Barbet. Raquet-tailed Roller, White-breasted Cuckooshrike and Spotted Creeper are among species found in miombo woodlands, while flocks of Böhm's Spinetail associate with large Baobab trees. Raptors and waterfowl are well-represented, with African Skimmer and White-crowned Lapwing breeding on the extensive sandbars of the Ruaha River.

Baobabs bounce back

Enormous Baobab trees are a feature of Ruaha, where almost all individuals bear the scars of the formerly huge elephant population. Elephant relish the succulent bark of Baobab trees and gouge into the tree trunks with their powerful tusks. In time, elephants can kill even the largest trees, but the drop in elephant numbers due to ivory poaching in the 1980s allowed the Baobabs to recover. The famous specimen pictured here - with a huge elephant-made hole in its trunk - is, however, living on borrowed time. Other impressive Ruaha trees include Tamarind, Jackalberry, Wooden Banana, Pod Mahogany and Newtonia. At the time of my July visit the extensive Combretum woodlands were a spectacle of gold and amber autumn foliage.

- Duncan Butchart -

Posted: Other by CC Africa, Date: 21 November 2006